greetings, long time no see!
for those of you unfamiliar with south korean geography, daegu is situated very close to pusan, the second largest city. it’s this huge, sprawling mass of city snaking along the coast and in between somewhat ill-placed mountains. when you look at it, it seems like it has no pattern whatsoever. you realize this is absolutely true as you try to make it across the city on the subway and it takes you 1.5 hours.
but coastal cities = delicious and fresh seafood. you can find a plethora of traditional korean markets all throughout the city, but there is only one JAGALCHI.
jagalchi market - this place is the hub of all things seafood. it’s also seedy as hell, despite the shiny, fancy new “seafood center” building which serves as the cleaned up version of the old school. fear not, you authentic-experience seekers. directly to the side of this behemoth, the original jagalchi market sits, unscathed. you can snake down the alley and gawk at whale meat purveyors (legal?), marvel at the millions of different alien looking shellfish, and take in all of the glorious stinky smells.
the fish, all splayed out.
it’s down this alley you’ll also find stalls and stalls of fish restaurants. translated, they call it “grilled fish” but, i would probably call it more of a “griddled fish.” actually, it’s one step away from fried in its own fishy oils. after searching korean blogs, i found that most people were headed to “the best fish house” (so obviously translated. in korean it would be jae-il hwet jip, or 제일횟집). for about $6.50 per person, you can get a variety of almost-fried fish, the normal bounty of ban-chan (side dishes), rice, and a heady soup made of fish innards with bean sprouts and blood cubes. get ready for it though, because it’s full of your typical drunk and loud korean ajushis and sassy ajumas.
fish for 2 (sang-sun-goo-ee). i believe we received some hairtail, flounder, red snapper, and one other un-named but delicious fish.